West World
West Ridge
Cloud 9
Rincon Boulders
Physicals
The FreightTrain
Hazard
County
|
DamNation
AKA Gross Dam Boulders
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| Jay attempting
Singular Objective V11 |
DamNation is one of the latest hotspots
in the Boulder area. It provides cool
morning and evening temperatures
on
the unique pocketed granite of Gross
Reservoir. There are many easy to
moderate problems and a good handful
of seemingly impossible projects. For
some reason there seems to a lack of
problems in the V-7 to V-9 range. Be
sure to go ahead and throw yourself
at Turn That Frown Upside-Down V12 and Singular Objective V11
because these lines are incredibly beautiful. There are many hard
problems that will go someday by somebody, so Do Not Chip!!
Getting There:
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| DamNation
approach |
Approach
1: Flagstaff Rd. -11
miles
The easiest access is by driving up
FlagStaff Road. Zero your odometer at the bridge
at the base of FlagStaff Mountain.
Drive up FlagStaff Road 8.7
miles. Turn left onto State Highway 72,
go 2.2 miles on dirt washboards.
Park on the left side of the road right
before the guardrail.
To get To The FreightTrain Parking:
From Damnation go south .3 miles, turn left at a 3-way intersection and
go less
than a mile to Crescent Meadows trailhead on the left before the Railroad
tracks.
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| DamNation
trailhead |
Approach
2: Coal
Creek Canyon -12 miles
From the intersection of Highways 93 and 72,
south of Boulder, go up Highway 72 (Coal Creek
Canyon) 8.2 miles. Turn right onto Gross Dam
Road (County Road 77). Go about 3 miles
until a 3-way intersection with a Gross Dam
sign. Turn right, go .3 miles. Cross over
South Boulder Creek and park on the right across from the guardrail.
The Hike: 8-10
minutes on mostly flat
Hike behind the guardrail. Continue west up the dirt service road a few
minutes.
50 paces past the second time you pass under the power line, go right
up
the trail. The rocks start less than 100 feet from the service road.
The Climbing
You'll find a little bit
of everything in this
unique granite
bouldering area.
From pockets,
projects, slopers,
mantles and slabby
face. Although the
rock is not very
sharp, the problems are for
the most part thin,
powerful and
devious. 40+ lines
have been done to
date, with a
potential for many
more.
Please notify us with
any first ascent info.
Thank You
F.R.B.
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| Chip on #4,
V-0 |
- (V-1): ** Pop. From
crack to lip, then mantle.
- (V-1): Vertical Face.
- One Foot to Go (V-4): *** Shallow corner.
- (V-0): * Warm up. Corner.
- Slab (V-?):
- Clap (V-5): *** Start low in underclings
and slap & clap up to lip, and over.
- (V-2): Sit start on corner and balance up.
- That's Some Gross Shit (V-7): f.a. by
Bart Strege. Start on knob. Left hand
sharp crimp, right hand bad pinch. Change
kneebar to calfbar and right hand to top.
Scramble off left.
- (V-1): ** Warm up. From low.
- Project (V-?): * Start up detached vertical
face and pull up and right to tricky top out.
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| Pat Wild
on Sloper V-5 |
- Warm Upish (V-2): ** Start low and move
up and right over a bulge.
- Tree Bola (V-4): ** Same start as # 11,
but go left into cool pockets and top out.
- (V-6): ** Jump to sloper and gain the tall scary slabby top
out.
- Corner (V-2): Steep corner and pull
around over the slab to reach to lip.
Watch your head on rock behind you.
- Tall Boy (V-2) : * High Arete.
- Sloper (V-5): ** From sharp edge slap up
slopers to the right and pull over.
- Project (V-?): Start on rock and reach
around the corner to sloper and top. Scary!
- Poison Ivy Arete (V-3): ** Exciting!
- Face.
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| Chip on
Poison Ivy Arete V-3 |
- Feel The Bass AKA Go Ask Matt (V-?):
Exit the left crack up high.
- Turn That Frown Upside-Down
(V-12/13): *** f.a. by Tommy Caldwell with jump start.
- Singular Objective (V-11): *** A stellar
problem first done by John Stack.
Tommy Caldwell did the 2nd ascent.
- Wide Warm Up (V-0): * Top out on big flakes.
- Corner (V-3): * Pull to the left at about 10
feet and top out flakes on #23.
- Slab (V-2): ** Fun, watch for friable edges.
- Slot (V-4): * Start low pull over little roof.
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| Jay on
#24, V-3 |
- Burnt Traverse (V-?): Don't know if its
been done. Not too good.
- Hole (V-3): * Climb out through the hole
between the boulders onto the slab
via pockets.
- Corner Project (V-?):
- Loose Flake Project (V-?):
- Tall Proud Corner Project (V-?):
- Blue Bucket Arete (V-3):
- Small Roof (V-?):
- Great Slab #1 (V-4): ** Don't use big foot
hold to start.
- Great Slab #2 (V-3): *** From sloper pull
straight up to small holds at the lip.
Variation (V-4): ** From sloper go out to
holds at right and up.
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| Chip on
Great Slab #2 V-3 |
- Whatever Slab (V-3): *
- Instant Classic (V-5): * Climb the egg-like
bulge.
- (V-?): Start low and traverse left.
- Ticky Ticky Man (V-7): *** Start low and
move to corner and up. The further to the
left one tops out, the easier it is.
- (V-4): * From low to Right. Then up.
- Project (V-?): Traverse lip to the right and
top out on token pocket.
- Broken Tree Project (V-?): Start off of rock
and reach to high, good edged face.
Update:
UnNamed
(V-0): Just right of #14. Start on a crimp, and the lowest
possible hold on the arete then, up
the slab.
HighBall
(V-2): Just around the corner to the right (east) from the top of
the hole through which #28 "Hole V-3"
climbs. Go up "Wide Warm-Up V-0"
then step across to the right. Start
on pockets on the left of the face staying
near the arete till you reach the bulge.
Move right and pull at a small pocket
and sidepull crack. The crux bulge
comes near the top about 30 feet off the
deck It's a long scary slab and quite
a highball.
3
Feet High And Rising (V-4): 5 feet right of #11. Reachy to sloper
then mantle.
Rising
From The Grave (V-4): Start on the back of the block the
The Great Slabs are on. Reach it
by squeezing into the chasm
between the Great Slab Block, and
the Death Wish Block. Start
sitting down at the northeast arete
with the right hand on a good
undercling/arete hold, and left in
a sloping 2 pad undercling. Then
slap and heel-hook your way up slopers
and crimps to a roll-over
top out. It's tainted by the presence
of boulders to the sides and
behind which are off route.
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| Gross Reservoir
|
Pros: Perfect stone, mostly
good landings.
Short flat hike. Tranquil setting. Mtn. biking
nearby. The DamNation and
FreightTrain together make a good day of granite.
Cons: A bit of a drive
getting there,
dirt roads and washboards. Not
enough problems yet.
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