Optimator V-3, The Nightmare Block

Shrouded in the trees, a half dozen choice chunks of sandstone have been unearthed 30 minutes up the steep, switch-backing Eldorado Canyon trail. At 18 feet tall, the Nightmare Block is the pick of the litter, with its featured maroon rock reminiscent of Your Mother and perfect piney landing.

Getting There: 30 minute hike

Lil Jimmy Arete V-2

The Access for this area is from the Eldorado Canyon Trail in the back of Eldorado Canyon State Park, eight miles southwest of Boulder, Colorado.

Drive into the back of Eldorado Canyon State Park and cross over the bridge. Then make a quick left and drive down the road to the ranger shack, and park.

Hike north up the hill, cross the dirt road, and switchback up the Eldorado Canyon Trail for 20 to 25 minutes to reach the high point. (Above the continuation of the East Egg ridge) Continue on for a few minutes to a silver waterpipe that ports a spring under the trail. The Physical boulders sit on both sides of the trail, 150 feet past the spring. The Nightmare Block is up the hill 150 feet to the east.

The Climbing

Salvator V-4, Nightmare Block

The climbing here is classic Eldo: positive, powerful and high enough to be committing. The rock here is nearly perfect in terms of integrity, so cut loose on those tinies! Crimp strength, good body English, and endurance for the higher problems are at a premium on these blocks -- it's a long way to the car if you fall and sprain your ankle! So bring pads and spotters.

All Dogs Must Die V-3

Nightmare Block
The Nightmare Block is in perpetual shade but there isn't a bad problem on it. Positive, generally incut handholds litter this 10 to 18-foot high gem of a block, with its beautiful, maroon-colored west face, tilted over at a consistent angle of 120 degrees. Though the cruxes usually come low or in the middle of the wall, the problems are sustained and pumpy to the finish. The climbing is characterized by long moves off of flat sidepulls, small but incut crimpers, and flat spikes and jugs.

LaserBeam Crack  The Laserbeam Crack can be found by hiking past the NightMare Block on the Eldorado Canyon Trail 10 minutes until you see the rock in the photo to the right. Go off the main trail and follow up the draw on the right side a few minutes and the LaserBeam Crack will come into view. Although there is only 2 problems on this rock it shouldn't be missed! LaserBeam Crack (V-4): ** From a sds, stay in the crack. Eric Variation (V-4): ** Go up the LaserBeam Crack unto the angle lessens then go right over the bulge and up. Up the draw a few minutes is the WildFire Rock. It offers a half dozen short moderates in the V0-V4 range.

rock that marks the turnoff to LaserBeam John B. on the f.a. of LaserBeam Crack V3