CITY AREA UPDATE
In the fall of 2004, Marcelo Montalva and Justin Jaeger spent
a number of days playing around at this small area trying to fill
in the gaps between the developed classics. Many of the problems described
below are variations to existing lines, developed in the most part
by John Servold and Jason Beausoleil, though some are entirely new.
The grades given are estimates, as neither Justin or Marcelo can be
trusted to give an accurate rating due to their unique styles, dementia,
and idiosyncratic physical characteristics [Justin's 6'7'' height
and +9 ape index; Marcelo's legal dwarf status]. If I gave a name/FA
credit to a line you did, please send such information to FRB
to make the necessary modifications.
COWPOKE V7/8. Essentially a variation: start sitting as for Gunslinger
and use crimps, slopers, and gastons to build your feet and ascend
the slabby face tending to the right of the arête. The arête
itself is not 'off'; one must naturally avoid the holds on the left
SIMIAN ADVENTURE BLOCK
NO EVIL V8ish. Start at the bottom of the obvious diagonal rail
and slap and slope your way up to the terminus of the feature, pick
out some tricky feet, and power out left to a juggy sidepull meeting
with the top out of Simian Adventure.
Variation: V7ish Do See No Evil starting on the natural cheater
LIZA'S LOCKOFF V?? [FA: Charles Fryberger] Climb the 'rail' problem
proper-style, from the lowest start through the direct top out.
Sticking and matching the lip is the crux, though it has been said
that wishing chuck's kid sister a happy birthday will bring good
luck. A good edgy gaston out right will help you roll over with
confidence. This problem should be a clean bet for even the most
SIMIAN ADVENTURE [variation] V7ish. Do Simian Adventure by starting
with both hands crimping the sloping glom. Campus to the jug immediately
above and don't spin off!
200LB. GORILLA V7ish. [FA: J. Beausoleil] Start as for Simian Adventure
but after gaining the middle jug, climb left on a leaning blocky
hold, bust out further left to the boulders' lip, and continue the
lip traverse all the way to the Sgt. Fury top out.
Variation: V8ish Do the 200lb. Gorilla link-up, though starting
with the crimpy campus start to Simian Adventure.
BANANA SLAP V7/10ish. [FA: Marcelo Montalva] A few feet right of
Sgt. Furry, start standing at a good left sidepull and a sloping
crimp and dyno through this steep overhang to the sweet spots on
the sloping lip. Top out straight or by traversing a few feet to
the left. The grade will depend highly on your height and dyno ability.
BIG SEXY, AKA, MM28
This big and beautiful block lies directly at the start of the trail
up to Ape City proper. It sits on relatively flat ground one level
above the streambed.
SPRAYPAINT SILVERBACK V7ish. On the stream-facing side, start on
the right arête with your right hand on a decent sloper at
7 feet and left hand out and lower on a foot-hold-like crimp on
the face. Tension and slap up and left on the arête until
reaching the sloping but blocky top of the feature. Mantle and top
out the rest of the slab slightly right of the arête. The
holds are still dirty up high, but are all there-be careful and
consider taking a brush with you.
Variation: PROJECT Climb the entire right arête, starting
nearly sitting from an obvious low edge on the lip.
ANGERBEAST V7ish. Just right of the very blunt left arête
of the stream-facing side, start with a high reach to the crimpy
not-so-sweet spots on the highly sloping rail directly in front
of two small saplings. Stacked pads may be helpful to reach these
crimps. Find a tiny crystal foot of your choice, set, and dead point
to the obvious sloping feature a couple feet above. Ascend the obvious
ledges straight up, using friable sidepulls over the left side of
the high arête [careful!] to eventually gain small stabilizing
holds with your right and good 'thank-god' holds on the left side
of the arête with your left to pull the easy mantle. Note:
this problem was originally done by jason b. by exiting towards
the right arête-another choice for the climber, because here
at ape city, we want you to have it your way.
Variation: PROJECT At the same starting holds, crimp, slope, and
slap your way diagonally across the face via the cool sloping rail
until reaching the right arête. Top out as for Spraypaint
BIG SEXY SLABS V0-V?
Many large undercling and side pull flakes exist to ascend the compelling
downstream face of this large boulder. Again, bring a brush to clean
holds in situ, though the most obvious features have been cleaned.
BIG SEXY ARETE, AKA, COCONUT BRASSIERE V0/1. Layback the sharp arête
that points directly upslope/away from the river.
CURIOSITY KILLED THE GEORGE, jump problem. [FA: Marcelo Montalva]
On the blank upstream face, sprint and scramble up the steep slab,
catching an unlikely but ok sloping hold on the bottom edge of the
obvious dip in the center of the face and match to mantle out. While
this hold seems more unlikely to hang than the more squared sections
of the boulder's lip, the six less inches of vertical needed to
obtain these grips seems critical.